A Baltic island, modern hyggelige cities and sandy beaches
The longing for our favourite country, Denmark, was just too great and so that’s where we went for our autumn holiday. Luckily, there are still plenty of spots we haven’t seen yet. But of course, we also have to say “hello” to our favourite places. This has resulted in a very compact Denmark tour this year. No leg was longer than 200 kilometres and we saw everything that this small country has to offer in terms of variety.
That’s why we are starting with a map to give you an overview: we are driving anticlockwise. We were on the island of Samsø on the Baltic coast, then in Aarhus, then Ebeltoft. Then we went up to Aalborg on the Limfjord, and then over to the North Sea coast: around Nørre Vorupør, Hvide Sande and Rømø. The weather was rather overcast ;) and so there was less light-flooded countryside, but more city. We liked that a lot too. Now let’s start at the beginning:
Our absolute highlight of the trip right at the start. A ferry takes us from Hov on the mainland to Saelvig in one hour and costs 90 euros for Marygold and us. By the way, the ferry is powered by gas and fits in with the island’s environmental consciousness. It’s renewable energies make it almost energy independent. Organic farming and sustainability are very important here! It is mega off-season, the open campsites don’t suit us and we spend 2 nights in the south in Kolby Kås. Here there is a parking area on an abandoned old ferry port. Kind of a lost place – right up our alley.
We use the next day to explore the island in beautiful sunshine. This can be done in one day if you move fast, as the island is only 28 kilometres long. It is 7 kilometres wide at its widest point and 500 metres wide at its narrowest point. Despite its small size, it is extremely diverse and we would recommend 3 days and definitely bikes for an in-depth exploration. Because, we have to be honest: it’s low season and we can find a parking spot anywhere. However, parking spaces suitable for us can be counted on one hand and as soon as it becomes more crowded, things might get a bit tight. The roads are sometimes quite cosy ;), but here too, thanks to it being off-season, we had hardly any oncoming traffic. But don’t worry, trucks get around all over the island.
We start in the south. The landscape is hilly and agricultural. The lighthouse is the geographical centre of Denmark! We drive through idyllic villages with thatched houses in the north. In between, the island is completely flat and has a long sandy beach. In the north it gets hilly again but also more raw and ends in a fascinating hobbit world, as we call it. More of a landscape of sand hills. At the end we make a detour to the east coast, to Langør. A narrow road with water on both sides leads from Hobbitland to Fairyland. A mini little place at the end of the headland. Surrounded by water, small islets with gentle rises. Impossible to capture in a photograph. It’s so quiet that we feel guilty about starting the engine again! The next day we leave the island. A great experience! But more discoveries call.
Denmark’s second largest city has been on our GoTo list for a long time. It’s supposed to be as great as Copenhagen, and yes, it is. We instantly fall in love! We spend the night in the City Marina car park and next day saddle up our folding bikes, which luckily moved into the rear bike garage in the summer. In Denmark’s towns and cities, cycling is a genuine pleasure, but does bring with it certain challenges. You really have to swim with the tide, stopping in mid-flow to check your route is not such a great idea. ;) However, we quickly figure it all out. Our route turns out to be approximately 12 kilometres in length. That’s enough to easily see everything. Since the weather is getting worse, we conquer the entire city in quick time.
We start at Aarhus Ø, the new harbourside development. We could spend the entire day just wandering around here. A water-skiing cable-tow and an open-air swimming pool in the middle of the harbour. With lots of colourful, hip container-shops and stalls in front of the sophisticated new apartment blocks. This colourful mix is just mega! In the city centre there are lots of broad and narrow shopping streets which in some places remind us of Hamburg. The Møllestien is a street with buildings dating from the 18th century that have been beautifully preserved, right in the heart of the city! And not forgetting the famous ARoS Art Museum, you’re bound to have seen the colourful roof already. But we are already more or less wet through and all we want to do is hurry back to lovely warm Marygold.
The next day we carry on a little further along the east coast. We are looking for a wing foiling spot; a good wind is forecast and we want to get out on the water. The coast is awesome. Quite hilly with lots of views over the water because there are no straight lines along the coast here. We’ll definitely put a pin in this area for future Denmark trips! We find our spot in Ebeltoft and settle ourselves down at the Strand Camping camp site. We get a pitch right on the beachfront. It doesn’t get any closer than that! The amazing thing is that there are still a lot of awnings up on the various motor homes. The little storm is hitting us directly head on and we are amazed to realise that nothing is moving, they’re all standing up straight as a die!
Once we have had our fill of fun on the water we take a little evening tour through the little town. Ebeltoft is known for its historic 14th century old town. Of course, we didn’t know that because all we were looking for was wind and weather and a place to park up. We fell so completely in love with this mini town that we even say we’ll drive to Ebeltoft for an afternoon’s stroll around town. It’s just as well that all these pretty little shops are already shut! But it’s not just shops that draw tourists to the town, but all of the many museums, a modern culture factory and the quaint and cosy restaurants.
The weather is withholding sunshine and wind, so we decide to take in the next town on our GoTo list as well. Aalborg is somewhat more industrial than Aarhus, but also very beautiful and there is plenty to discover. Old town streets, great restaurants, new harbourside buildings. The Utzon Center, the last building designed by Jørn Utzon who also built the Sydney Opera House, is located by the harbour. Aalborg is also famed for its street art. There are special tours which describe the various pieces.
You can explore Aalborg really easily on foot, it’s very compact. Sadly there is no really good parking area; we cycled from the City Camping site along the fjord and into town. It wasn’t far and the cycle path is lovely.
Cold Hawaii with Nørre Vorupør
Right, so now we’ve had enough of towns and sightseeing and so forth. The North Sea coast is calling really loudly to us beach babies, no matter what the weather says. We drive on in the rain to Klitmøller, it just has to be done. We stop here only for a short photo break.
There are hardly any places to park up here. We spend two nights at the beautifully situated Nørre Vorupør Camping. At this site you’re right in the middle of the dunes, with a bit of a sea view and an impressive sunset. From here, we go for two days wing foiling at the Limfjord. The fjord landscape is always beautiful.
And do you know what the absolutely most brilliant thing in Denmark is? Roadside shopping! Honey, jam, seasonal fruit and vegetables, flowers. There’s nothing that we didn’t find. Very much to the chagrin of the driver who had to keep stopping :) .
Time for the classic. Hvide Sande is part of any Denmark trip for us. Even if it’s anything but empty during the autumn holiday period. But the little town is growing steadily. There are now five (!) motorhome parking areas! There’s something for everyone here. We test a new one on the fjord shore and then spend another two nights at one of our very favourite sleeping spots: the beach car park beneath wind turbines and stars.
Here we enjoy a few days by the beach, shopping for souvenirs, eating chips and Pølse (sausages) until they’re coming out of our ears and having another go at wing foiling. Sadly with not enough wind. To make up for it we have a cheeky seal as a neighbour, it lives right by the water-skiing cable-tow and eyes us closely and boldly on land and in the water. The good thing about such a chilled out late summer’s day is that you can dry and sort everything in peace. We’re always a little bit astonished at what tumbles out of Marygold’s rear garage ;)
Yes, of course the obligatory farewell to Denmark takes place on Rømø. Bo tries, as usual, to become master of all the sand. A hand brush is both the most important and the most useless accessory you could need here. The big, well-known car park with 180 places is full for the start of the holidays in the north! However, we bagged ourselves a place early at midday. And the coolest thing is: despite 180 motorhomes, Marygold is the most beautiful! At least to judge by the looks that come our way when we roll onto the car park. Apart from the fact that every motorhome is the most beautiful, as we always say! Rømø and Denmark bid us farewell with a mystical morning of mist. Very spooky, when you’re standing on the enormous beach and can see only white.
We say goodbye and hejhej, until the next time, favourite country. We’ll definitely be back! It’s just soooo relaxing travelling here!
You’ll find our story from 2018 with more information on our favourite places on the west coast, here:
Travel Tip Denmark
See you soon!